6. Far South: Xochimilco and the Dolores Olmedo
The canals of Xochimilco are what is left of the lake the Aztecs built their city on, and of the chinampas, the “floating gardens” where they grew their food. Do a boat ride and the Dolores Olmedo museum, a few minutes away, and you have a whole day in the far south of the city.
The trajineras
Rent one of the colorful flat-bottomed boats, the trajineras, with a boatman who poles you along the canals. The official price is 750 pesos (~40 USD) per hour per boat, not per person, and most rides last two to three hours. Agree on time and price before you get on.
Which landing (embarcadero) you choose makes all the difference:
- Nuevo Nativitas and the other landings near the center of Xochimilco – this is the party scene, with music, beer and boats bumping into each other. Fun on a weekend with a group, but not exactly peaceful
- Cuemanco, Puente de Urrutia or Fernando Celada – in the protected chinampa zone. Much quieter, with herons, farm plots and people who actually live on the water. That’s where I’d go
Bring your own food and drinks (alcohol is limited per boat) or buy from the floating vendors who paddle up with elote, quesadillas, micheladas. A mariachi boat will happily pull alongside for about 300 pesos (~16 USD) a song. Weekdays are calmer.
Getting there: an Uber from Roma takes about 45 minutes to an hour, or take the light rail (Tren Ligero) from Metro Tasqueña to the end of the line.
Museo Dolores Olmedo
Av. México 5843, La Noria – Tren Ligero La Noria · Tue–Sun 10 AM – 6 PM · 432 pesos (~23 USD) · website
Reopened in 2026 after five years closed! Dolores Olmedo was Diego Rivera’s friend and patron, and her 16th-century hacienda has the largest collection of his work anywhere, plus a room of Frida Kahlo. A much better way to see Frida’s art than her house in Coyoacán. Peacocks and hairless xoloitzcuintle dogs wander the gardens.